Who's who

toledo came to anne klein, suddenly the label's in barneys. vera's at kohl's, erin's coming to target. claiborne bought kate. for theyskens, rochas closed and ricci opened. elbaz is lanvin. ford left and gucci survived. valentino is out and facchinetti is in. if you bought a shirt from doo-ri's gap design edition, do you have a shirt from the gap or doo-ri?

which matters more to you, who the designer is, or where the designer is?


Anonymous said...

Great question!
I think it depends...some of the brands manage to hold on to their image/heritage despite the revolving door of designers that pass through. Gucci is an interesting example where the designers in the past have emphasized isolated aspects of the brand. Ford was designing iconic Gucci looks, but then Facchinetti took it in a different direction (and coming on the heels of Ford, had little opportunity to impress, a real -uphill battle) and now Ginanni is making some headway. All 3 produced very different Gucci looks, but all Gucci. Still, there is no question that certain looks will always be considered Ford for Gucci on the vintage circuit. Since quality matters to me, when budget stores have guest designers, I feel you are still getting target/h&m/kohl's/gap, etc. merchandise. And I'm not interested in that. If I go to the gap, it's to get a basic t-shirt, which they can manage to do, or some other piece of incredibly simple straightforward basics (which gap really needs to stick to!), and I don't respect it when they try to compete with their erroneously imagined peers of some weird barneys/target hybrid. They are neither and should just be something independent. So I don't know what my answer is exactly...I go to designers for designers, and I go to chains for something else, and I don't like the identity crisis that is going on within retailers lately.
Thanks for this post.

Candid Cool said...

I consider the mass merchant collaborations still a part of the designer but I think it also depends on the design.

I really love my pieces from proenza’s collaboration with target. The slouchy t-shirts are perfect, I wish they would just continuously re-issue them. And I’ve got a cool windbreaker, that now 2 seasons later I see popping around in other labels.

So for me I guess it matters who the designer is. Theyskens’s work for Ricci still is similar to what he did with Rochas. And Kris Van Assche’s work for Dior Homme is a definite departure from Hedi’s work for Dior Homme.


Iheartfashion said...

Great question! I always check out the designer collaborations with Target, Gap, etc, and will look at Vera Wang for Kohl's when that hits stores, but I rarely buy them. It's great for a t-shirt or other basic item, but for a coat or dress I'd much rather scour Filene's Basement for the real designer item at a discount. Today I found the perfect Marni dress from Winter 2006 collection for $399, still expensive but 1/3 of retail.

The Glossy Editor said...

Who more than where - unless it's the whole high/low thing. I'm kind of over all the colaborations now --and the last one I heard of Pierre Hardy for The GAP! almost made me cry.

editor said...

anonymous - hi, thanks for posting and very interesting thoughts.

candid cool - i keep an open mind...some how though, i think i would like items better if they were presented as simply target or h&m merchandise and not publicizing the "designer" behind it.

pierre hardy for the gap? shoes at the gap? :o

iheartfashion - is the original basement still there? you're killin' me here with this marni coat, omgd!

Iheartfashion said...

Editor: the original Basement is shut for renovation right now, but one has opened on Boylston St in Boston, and there are several in the surrounding suburbs. I found the coat in Newton, along with tons of Dries, Proenza, Zac Posen. It was an exciting day!

editor said...

^^i never had any luck at any of the duplicated basements, only the original. sounds like you hit the jackpot though. i'll have to pop over to newton the next time i'm in town!