Just thinking

she opened her first store (selling mugler and rykiel along with her own designs) at 23, and founded her eponymous fashion house, jil sander, at 24.
she remained focussed on her minimalist aesthetic through the late 70s and early 80s when fashion was over the top. she marketed her first perfume with a campaign that featured her own face. it was a huge success. her business grew and eventually her company went public and her designs informed fashion in the mid to late 90s. in 1999, however, prada group bought a 75% share in the company. sander remained a creative designer and became chairwoman in the joint venture. six months later, she left the company after clashing with prada ceo patrizio bertelli. she briefly returned to the company to design for 2003-2004 (for the 2004-2005 seasons), before leaving again, after more problems with bertelli.
jil sander is a fashion original - her design philosophy is unwaivering, yet her designs were always inspiring. a fashion designer to whom the quote "think more, buy less" is often attributed.
her line has been designed by talented people following her abandonment of the label (twice), but to each replacement
i cannot help but think, even as i concede that some of the work is good, you sir, are no jil sander.

are there designers who you would deem irreplaceable?

(a few looks from a true jil sander collection in '05)

7 comments:

enc said...

I'd say Dior, N. Rodriguez, Chanel, Prada. But then again, two of those have been replaced, to great success. So I don't know. How's that for nebulous?

-h of candid cool said...

didnt prada also buy helmut lang out of his own name too?

irreplaceable designers: hedi slimane.

Anonymous said...

funny, i was never personally a huge fan of his, but calvin klein is, similar to sander, a designer who seemed so staunch in his views, his beliefs about beauty, and i will never look at the label the same way, now that he is not designing it.

vivienne westwood - that label is just her, through and through.

it's the risk designers take when they blend so seamlessly with their work/identity/label.

Carlene said...

Another vote for Calvin Klein. I think he was my "first love" as far as fashion goes. I've somehow been able to ignore the licensing thing and still love his work from the 80s & 90s so much.

K.Line said...

Oooh, another good question. Is anyone really irreplaceable? I mean, even the eponymous lines are run by new designers and creative directors after a while. So, I guess it's more the aesthetic (for my money) that's irreplaceable. And I do love that Scandinavian minimalism thing (well explored by Calvin K, Theory, Vince). It never gets old and there are many diffusion lines that do it well (and more affordably than the designer lines)...

The solemn cat said...

Another vote for Queen Viv!

fashionaddict said...

Helmut Lang!